Asian Cuisine Corner: Pho Hai To Vang Danh

Order one and get two, that’s two-bowl pho, also known as Gia Lai dry pho, the pride in the culinary culture of the mountain town people.
Gia Lai mountain town, in addition to specialties such as grilled chicken and bamboo-tube rice, wine, smoked chicken, and sun-dried beef, also has another pride: two-bowl pho, also known as dry pho. This dish has been recognized by the Asian Records Organization as “Asian Cuisine Value” in 2012.
The name two-bowl pho comes from the way pho and broth are served in two separate bowls. Photo: Quynh Mai
The origin of dry pho comes from the traditional dry pho making profession in Gia Lai. The production facility at 42 Ba Trieu (Pleiku City) is considered the first dry pho maker in the mountain town, founded by Mr. Hau Tac Cai (Chinese origin) and his wife, Ms. Hua Thi Thuy. Ba Trieu Street is also home to many of the oldest pho noodle ovens today, all owned by descendants of the Hau family.
From dry pho noodles, Mr. Nguyen Thanh My created dry pho, also known as two-bowl pho, according to Gia Lai province’s electronic information portal. The time when dry pho was born has not been clarified.
Gia Lai dry pho noodles are different from regular pho noodles. Dried pho noodles are made from rice in Phu Thien district (Gia Lai). The process of making dried pho is similar to making fresh pho, but the noodles are not cut immediately but need to go through the drying process before being put into the cutting machine.
Dried pho noodles are about 3 or 4 times smaller in size than Hanoi pho noodles. At first glance, they are easily confused with noodles in Ho Chi Minh City. Pho noodles are thin, flat, and hard because most of the water has been removed during the drying process, but when blanched in hot water, they become soft and chewy.
Cooked pho noodles are put into a bowl, add pork rinds, fried onions, green onions, minced pork that has been marinated with spices and stir-fried until cooked (with dried beef pho) or shredded chicken (with dried chicken pho). In addition to the accompanying herbs such as bean sprouts, basil, lettuce, and coriander, dried pho cannot lack a typical spice, creating the “soul of the dish”, which is Gia Lai black sauce. This is a spice made from fermented soybeans, has a black color, a smooth consistency, a salty taste mixed with a little sweetness of soybeans and a special aroma.
As the name suggests, two-bowl pho, when ordering a portion of pho, diners will be served two bowls at the same time, one containing pho noodles, one containing broth. Beef dry pho uses broth from pork and beef bones, chicken dry pho uses broth from pork and chicken bones.
Do not use spices such as cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, dry pho broth, only use bone broth, add minced beef, and shape into balls. Dry pho broth has a light, sweet taste with little spice, so when enjoyed on its own, it may be a bit bland for some people’s taste.
At a glance, the two-bowl pho dish looks similar to the mixed vermicelli of the North. The difference is that the noodles are ivory white and do not turn transparent after cooking like vermicelli.
Before enjoying dry pho, diners add herbs and sprinkle with hoisin sauce into the bowl of pho. The noodles are chewy, smooth, sweet, and the fresh vegetables, after being mixed well, absorb the salty taste of the hoisin sauce. After tasting the flavors created from many spices, a spoonful of light, sweet broth will help balance your taste buds, avoiding the feeling of being too salty or sick when eating continuously.
During the Hanoi Fall Festival 2023 taking place from September 29 to October 1 at Hanoi Children’s Palace, the Gia Lai dry pho stall of Ms. Luong Vu Thao Nguyen, owner of a dry pho restaurant in Pleiku City, attracted many delicious dishes. Guests come to enjoy. “When cleaning up, most diners eat all the pho, not leaving much left over. Some people buy more to take home after eating, some buy packaged dry pho and hoisin sauce to prepare at home.” , Ms. Nguyen shared.
Ms. Huynh Thi Phuong (37 years old) was born in Gia Lai and moved to Hanoi for about 15 years. Having enjoyed both dry pho in her hometown and Hanoi pho, she said that Gia Lai dry pho noodles are small, chewy and hard, not soft, smooth and moist like Hanoi pho noodles. Ms. Phuong herself prefers dry pho and can enjoy it every day. Hanoi Pho is delicious, but because it uses a lot of spices and the broth has a stronger smell, she eats it less often, about 2-3 times a week.
The brand pho two bowls has been registered for trademark protection by Gia Lai province. Photo: Quynh Mai
In 2021, Gia Lai dry pho is one of four Vietnamese specialties along with Nghe An eel vermicelli, Hue beef vermicelli and Quang noodles selected by the Ministry of Information and Communications to be printed on the “Vietnamese Cuisine” stamp set. The stamp set is available on the postal network of Vietnam Post Corporation from December 25, 2021 to June 30, 2023, according to the Gia Lai Tourism Promotion Information website.
In 2022, Ms. Nguyen brought two bowls of pho to participate in the “Finding a good pho cook” contest organized by the Vietnam Culinary Culture Association (VCCA) and a number of units and won the Creative Hoi An award.
Also in 2022, Gia Lai province registered trademark protection for Gia Lai dry pho. Ms. Nguyen’s pho shop located at 10 Nguyen Tat Thanh Street, Pleiku City is one of the few businesses granted the right to use the Gia Lai dry pho brand certification mark by the Department of Science and Technology of Gia Lai province. Ms. Nguyen’s restaurant is located at 10 Nguyen Tat Thanh (Pleiku City), currently selling a medium bowl of Gia Lai dry pho for 35,000 VND, a large bowl for 40,000 VND and a special bowl for 50,000 VND.
Although recognized as a Vietnamese specialty, the reputation of dry pho has not yet spread beyond the local area. Ms. Nguyen hopes that in the future there will be tours combining cuisine to promote the value and flavor of dry pho nationwide and internationally.

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